Types of Pliers: A Complete Guide for Every Trade

The average tradesman carries at least one type of pliers every day. But most job belts only have one or two types, and they're usually the ones that came with a basic tool set. The problem with only having one or two types is that pliers are one of the most specialized hand tool categories out there. 

Each type is designed for a specific set of tasks, and using the wrong one either makes the job harder or damages the work. This guide covers every type of pliers used across the trades, what each one does, and which ones belong in your kit.

Slip-joint pliers are the ones most people picture when they hear the word pliers. The pivot point slides between two positions — one for gripping smaller objects, one for larger ones. The serrated jaw handles gripping, bending, and light fastening tasks.

They're a general-purpose tool, not a specialist. For most dedicated trade applications, a more specific plier will do the job better. But slip-joint pliers earn their place in every tool belt as the catch-all for quick tasks that don't require a specialty tool. Standard sizes run 6, 8, and 10 inches. The 8-inch is the most common general-purpose choice.

Tongue-and-groove pliers go by a lot of names — channel-lock pliers, pump pliers, multi-grips, water pump pliers. The jaw adjusts across multiple positions by sliding the lower jaw along a toothed channel, which is where the name comes from. This gives you a wide range of jaw opening without losing grip strength.

These are the go-to pliers for plumbers and HVAC technicians. They grip pipe, fittings, nuts, and bolts that are too large for standard pliers, and the angled jaw lets you apply serious torque without your hand slipping. Common sizes range from 6.5 inches up to 16 inches — most tradespeople carry a 9-inch as their everyday pair and a 12-inch for larger work.

The long handles give you significant mechanical advantage. That's great for breaking loose stubborn fittings, but it also means you can overtighten and damage soft metals or plastic fittings if you're not paying attention. Use them with control.

Lineman's pliers are the signature tool of the electrical trade. If you see an electrician's tool belt, there's almost certainly a pair of lineman's pliers hanging from it. The flat, serrated jaw is designed for twisting wire — both the pigtail twists done in junction boxes and the heavier twists needed for service entrance connections. One side of the jaw has a built-in side cutter for cutting conductors.

The grip strength of lineman's pliers is exceptional. The wide jaw surface and long handles make them effective for gripping and pulling wire through conduit as well. Some lineman's pliers include a crimper die for wire connectors, a fish tape puller notch, or a bolt-cutting notch near the pivot.

They run in 8, 9, and 9.5-inch lengths. The 9-inch is the standard for most journeymen electricians. If you work in tight panel spaces frequently, keep a shorter pair on hand. Linemen working overhead will often have a longer pair for the additional leverage.

Needle-nose pliers (sometimes called long-nose pliers) have a long tapered jaw that lets you reach into tight spaces, grab small components, and make precise bends in wire. Most needle-nose pliers also have a side cutter behind the jaw for cutting wire.

Electricians use them constantly for bending wire leads into the J-hooks required for screw terminals, reaching into crowded junction boxes, and working with small conductors in finished panels. Electronics technicians use them for component work. Mechanics use them for pulling small clips, routing wires through tight areas, and working on fuel and brake systems in confined spaces.

The tapered jaw makes them excellent for precision. The trade-off is grip strength — needle-nose pliers aren't the right tool for applying serious torque. For that, you need a beefier jaw. Sizes run from 5 inches for very tight spaces up to 8 inches for general use. A 6-inch pair handles most situations well.

Locking pliers grip and hold. The adjusting screw sets the jaw opening, and when you squeeze the handles past the locking point, the compound-lever mechanism locks the jaw in place with significant clamping force. To release, you press the release lever and the jaw opens. The result is a pair of pliers that can act as a clamp, a wrench substitute, or a vise when you need a third hand.

Mechanics use locking pliers to hold parts in place while they work, to turn damaged bolts and nuts that have had their corners rounded off, and to clamp work pieces for welding or fabrication. Welders use them constantly — they hold metal in position while you tack-weld, without burning your hands.

They come in several jaw configurations: curved jaw (the classic), straight jaw (for flat stock), long-nose (for tight spaces), sheet metal (C-clamp style), and others. Curved jaw is the most versatile starting point. Common sizes are 5, 7, 10, and 11 inches — the 7-inch curved jaw is the most widely used general-purpose size.

Diagonal cutters (also called side cutters, dikes, or wire cutters) have no gripping function at all. The angled cutting edges meet to shear wire, cable, zip ties, thin nails, and any other material that fits between the jaws. The diagonal cutting angle gives them leverage and lets you cut close to a surface.

Electricians use diagonal cutters more than almost any other hand tool. Cutting wire to length, trimming conductors in panels and junction boxes, removing zip ties without damaging insulation — it comes up constantly. Carpenters use them for cutting wire staples and strapping. HVAC technicians use them for cutting copper and aluminum refrigerant tubing insulation and control wires.

Standard sizes run 6, 7, and 8 inches. The 7-inch is the most common. Some diagonal cutters are designed specifically for hard wire like piano wire or ACSR (aluminum conductor steel reinforced) — if you're cutting anything harder than standard copper, check that your cutters are rated for it. Cutting hard wire with standard diagonal cutters chips the cutting edges.

End-cutting pliers, also called nippers or end nips, have their cutting edges at the very tip — perpendicular to the handle, not angled like diagonal cutters. This lets them cut flush to a surface. The most common use in the trades is pulling finish nails: you grip the nail head with the cutting edges and roll the pliers against the wood to lever the nail out without a large tool face crushing the surface.

Finish carpenters and trim crews reach for end nips constantly. They're also used for cutting wire flush to a board, snipping excess threaded rod, and in some cases for cutting zip ties where the standard side-cutter angle is awkward. Not every tool belt needs them, but if you do finish work, they belong in yours.

Hose clamp pliers are designed specifically for spring-tension hose clamps, the type with two tabs that you squeeze together to expand the clamp and slide it off the hose. The jaws have notches or tips that grip those tabs, and the spring-loaded handles hold the clamp open while you slide the hose on or off.

Without the right pliers, removing spring hose clamps is frustrating, and regular pliers slip off the tabs, your hand cramps from maintaining grip, and you inevitably pinch yourself or drop the clamp somewhere inside the engine bay. With hose clamp pliers, the job takes ten seconds.

Mechanics use them constantly on coolant hoses, vacuum lines, and fuel lines. Plumbers and HVAC technicians encounter them on drain connections and refrigerant lines. Some hose clamp pliers have a locking mechanism so you can hold the clamp open hands-free. That's the version worth having.

Snap rings (also called circlips or retaining rings) are thin metal rings that snap into grooves to hold components like bearings, gears, and pins in place. They come in two types: internal snap rings fit inside a bore, and external snap rings fit around a shaft. The tools to install and remove them are different.

Internal snap ring pliers have tips that point inward — squeezing the handles opens the ring so it can be inserted into or removed from a bore. External snap ring pliers have tips that point outward — squeezing the handles closes the ring so it can be inserted onto or removed from a shaft. Some snap ring pliers are convertible, with interchangeable tips.

Mechanics, machinists, and anyone working on drivetrain components, hydraulic cylinders, or gearboxes will use snap ring pliers regularly. Without the right tool, snap ring installation and removal is nearly impossible — the rings are under tension, and they need to be expanded or compressed precisely.

Crimping pliers create a mechanical connection between a wire terminal and a conductor by compressing the terminal barrel around the wire. The die-shaped jaws deform the terminal in a controlled way that creates a gas-tight connection when done correctly.

Electricians use crimpers for connecting wire leads to ring terminals, spade terminals, butt connectors, and other crimp-style connectors. Automotive technicians use them for trailer wiring, accessory circuits, and battery connections. HVAC technicians crimp low-voltage control wire connections.

Match the crimper to the terminal type and wire gauge. Using a crimper designed for small 22-18 AWG terminals on a larger 10-8 AWG terminal results in an incomplete crimp that fails under vibration. Most professional crimpers are color-coded to match the insulation colors on standard terminals: red for 22-18 AWG, blue for 16-14 AWG, yellow for 12-10 AWG.

Bent-nose pliers have the same function as needle-nose pliers — reaching into tight spaces, gripping small components, making wire bends — but the jaw angles at 45 or 90 degrees instead of running straight. That angle lets you reach around an obstruction or into a corner that straight needle-nose pliers cannot access.

Electronics technicians and electricians working in densely packed enclosures and panels use bent-nose pliers frequently. They're also useful for bending terminal leads in tight PCB work and for routing wire in complex conduit layouts. Not everyone needs a pair, but once you've used them in the right situation, you understand their value immediately.

As a general rule, buy the size that fits the most common situation in your day-to-day work. Specialty sizes for tight spaces or large work are secondary purchases once you know you need them.

Most pliers sold for trade use have dipped vinyl or overmolded handles. The insulation rating matters for electricians — look for handles rated to 1,000V for general electrical work or 10,000V for linemen working on energized systems. OSHA and NFPA 70E requirements specify insulated tools for work on or near energized parts.

Beyond insulation, grip comfort matters on tools you use all day. Overmolded handles with a rubber grip surface reduce fatigue and give you better control when your hands are greasy or wet. If you work in cold weather, look for handles that stay pliable below freezing — some vinyl handle materials become stiff and brittle in cold conditions.

Pliers are long-lived tools if they're made well and cared for. But they don't last forever. Replace a pair of pliers when the cutting edges are chipped, nicked, or no longer meeting cleanly (for cutters and lineman's pliers). Replace them when the pivot joint becomes loose and the jaw wobbles under load. Replace locking pliers when the adjustment mechanism no longer holds under clamping force. And replace any pliers with cracked or damaged handles, especially if they're being used near electrical systems.

A worn-out pair of pliers makes every job harder and, in some cases, more dangerous. Quality pliers from established brands like Klein, Gearwrench, Milwaukee, Channellock, and more last for years of daily trade use.

Pliers are one of those tools where having the right ones for the job makes everything easier. One type of plirse isn't able to do it all. Having multiple different pliers at your disposal will save time, money, and overall energy, plus less frustration in the long run. 

Build your tool bag around what you need and have the pliers nearby, then add specialty pairs as you run into the jobs that need them. You don't need to have every type of plier right now; just get the basics and work yourself up.